Stones River National Battlefield, Rutherford County, Tennessee

(Click to enlarge pictures)

 

          I am not a Civil War “buff” by any means, but it is a part of our nation’s history and I do find it fascinating. That I can combine an interest with a love of hiking is that much better, and Stones River National Battlefield is a terrific place to visit. Here is Dan McDowell and P. J. at the visitor’s center (new) and taking a short break on the 4 mile perimeter trail.


 

          There are big trees throughout the park; the ones on the left are on the trail, while the one on the right (lightning-struck, it appears) stands sentry in the National Cemetery.


 

          Yes, this is cave country, and this battle just happened to be fought in and among sinks and karst features. Here are a couple of examples, one small and one rather large.


 

               There are cannons everywhere, some apparently abandoned in place. Here Peej alternately appears to be rowing and riding a pair. The one on the left is near the “Slaughter Pens”, and I believe it’s original. At right, Peej enjoys a bit of lunch. These pictures and a few others (they should be obvious) are from our 2003 trip.


 

          

Here then are the aforementioned Slaughter Pens, which are exposed chunks of limestone that obviously made for excellent cover…to a point…then they became a sad place to die. Thousands were killed here in a few days’ furious fighting over the New Year of 1862-1863. In the picture on the right, P. J. assumes a firing position with his hiking staff, perhaps in the exact location a soldier fell in those bloody days.


 

          There are bits of beauty amongst the reminders of the horrors of war; on the left, pale blue berries on a cedar tree, on the right, an “osage orange” someone decided needed to be mounted on a rail fence. It made for an interesting picture, at least.


 

          

It was a little chilly on our most recent (2008) trip to Stones River, and around the bases of the greenery we could see ice crystals that had formed during the night. Left: P. J. examines one ice flake; center, what he was looking at; right, an ice “bow” on moss.


 

     Then there was this example, which looks more like a gypsum flower in a cave.


 

    Still, one must bear in mind that this was a battlefield, and despite the beauty, you are constantly driven to wonder what horrors might’ve taken place in an otherwise peaceful cedar glade such as this.


 

     There are several signs erected by various states memorializing their citizens’ efforts in the battle; this is from Michigan, and it is near the Slaughter Pens.


 

     Dan examines another interpretive sign.


 

          

These three pictures are at the Hazen Brigade Memorial, which is across the highway from the main battlefield area and adjacent to the cemetery and the old Nashville-Chattanooga (now CSX) rail line. It commemorates the actions of those killed at Stones River and Shiloh as well. The fighting here was incredibly fierce. Inside the monument were placed several items (a couple of rifles, artillery shells, cannon balls, and more) that are strikingly reminiscent of the structures found at Pinson Mounds.


 

     These World War I-era graves are located just outside the Hazen Memorial enclosure.


 

     A row of graves inside the walls. The one in the middle, sadly, reads, “Unknown”.


 

               One of the more interesting—if gruesome—stories of the Battle of Stones River is that of Lt. Col. Julius Peter Garesche, who was the chief-of-staff of Union General William Rosecrans. I will not attempt to relate it here in much detail (better told here, though I will not vouch for its accuracy) except to note that Garesche was apparently struck by a cannon round as his unit moved into position. He was instantly decapitated, but his body stayed atop his horse which apparently trotted on till eventually he fell. That spot was marked by the sign on the left, which lay adjacent to the rail line. Garesche was a devout Catholic, and we found these tokens (a rosary and a crucifix) mounted on the sign in 2003…memorials which in time apparently prompted the sign’s removal, as it is no longer there.


 

          

Left to right: Row upon row of graves, a unit memorial, and the plaque on the flagpole at the Stones River National Cemetery.


 

               

Some of the poignant verses posted throughout the cemetery…


 

               

…and more. I found seven such signs; if there’s more, I didn’t see them. Right: “This Precious Dust.”


 

     The rail line that runs along the back of the cemetery still carries trains, and we spotted this one.


 

          It hardly seems like five years, but it was, and to the day, even. Our first visit (based on the cancellation stamp in our National Parks Passport) was November 22, 2003; this trip was November 22, 2008. Believe me when I note that we didn’t plan it this way! It made for a remarkable picture, here at the very corner of the cemetery adjacent to the highway. P. J. as an eight-year-old boy; and P. J. as a thirteen-year-old young man.

 

 

Back to the Pictures Page

 

Back to the Home Page