Maude’s Crack Loop Trip (John Muir Trail / No Business Creek), Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area, Pickett/Scott Counties, Tennessee

(Click to enlarge pictures)

 

          I suppose I should start by noting that this was not an “official” loop trip, in the sense that it is posted as such and documented. Not that it’s unknown, certainly, the trails and roads used are on all the maps. It introduced us to a whole new area of Big South Fork, and it turned out to be quite nice, nice enough that I suggest it to hiking friends as a destination. Appropriately enough, the first and last legs of it aren’t even on trails, they’re on a jeep trail and a portion of an access road leading to and from the Terry Cemetery.


 

          

Just when you think you’ve seen it all, nature comes up and throws you a curve. I suppose these testicular jelly-like globs we found in a puddle along the jeep trail were egg sacs of some kind. I don’t know for sure except that they were, yes, gross!

 

          

The jeep trail eventually connects to a proper trail not far from this splendid overlook Tom DeCamp and Dan McDowell are enjoying. Apparently families had homes up here while husbands went to work down in the valley below. So how did they get there, you ask? And how did Maude Roysdon get her husband’s lunch to him every day?


 

          That’s where “Maude’s Crack” comes in. This narrow crevice is the route Maude Roysden followed to get down into the bottomland around No Business Creek. In that it’s markedly similar to Great Stone Door in Big Creek Gulf (I’ll post trips to that amazing place here soon) in that it’s one of only a very few places in pioneer days where it was practical and safe to descend past the sandstone caprock in the area. It’s still a very cool place to visit! At left, Tom views it from above; at right, Dan starts down.


 

               

It really is as precipitous as it looks. It’s narrow, too, and very cave-like, and the joint in the rock goes up a long, long way! The walls are rather slick and don’t afford much purchase…a good walking staff is a big, big help here.


 

     Tom and I after passing through Maude’s Crack (boy, that does sound kinda dirty, doesn’t it…)


 

          

Just below the Crack you can access a spur of the John Muir Trail that gradually winds its was down to No Business Creek, passing in and amongst collapsed rock, ridge outliers, and in season, wildflowers. Needless to say, Dan was in his element, and at left he is examining some of the varieties. Center: I can’t identify them, but they’re pretty. Right: this is obviously a trillium of some kind, perhaps toadshade. It looks as if it was perhaps a week away from blooming.


 

     You’ve seen what it looks like from the top; this is the view from below. It’s equally spectacular. Yes, lest you wonder, that is where you came from, way up there, and yes, that is where you’ll need to go to get out!


 

          

Despite its remoteness (an be assured, this is remote!) the No Business Creek area was pretty active as recently as fifty years ago. There was lots of farming, some mills, even a small store down here. The low wall Dan is examining at right was apparently built to keep floodwaters out of the fields.


 

          Yes, someone contrived a way to get a car down here. Not out though, apparently. This rusted hulk was probably someone’s pride and joy in bygone days, and Dan and I appreciated its fine lines.

 

     Sometimes the things you don’t intend to see really make the trip more intriguing. We’d intended to connect to the Longfield Branch trail to head back up to Terry Cemetery and complete the loop, but we missed the spur and kept going up No Business Creek. That’s where we found the ruins of the Rance Boyatt farm. It was a fortuitous mistake, because the story behind this place is pretty darned interesting…you can read all about it here.


 

     Eventually we did locate Longfield Branch, waded No Business Creek, and made our way back up to Terry Cemetery where we met Tom, who had done his own thing out in the area of Big Island. I hope to get out that way myself someday. Now that’s remote. Tom DeCamp is a hiking animal.


 

          Left: Maude Roysdon’s final resting place, in Terry Cemetery. Right: Tom puts flowers on the grave of a child whose life was all too short. Gone to be an angel, the inscription reads.


 

          Buried here also are some members of the Slaven family which settled the Big South Fork area. These headstones are rather interesting in that they, like the child’s above, have photographs placed on them. You’ve heard it said that a picture is worth a thousand words, and this is proof enough, I think.

 

 

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